Extra Long Staple Cotton

Extraordinarily fine cottons

The longer the fibres, the finer the yarn – and the smoother and stronger the fabric.  English Fine Cottons will make luxury grade yarns spun from extra long staple (ELS) cotton.  The name ELS cotton is given to cotton fibres of extraordinary length, whose characteristics create the most luxurious fabrics.

Cotton, a perennial shrub, has been cultivated and used to make yarns for more than 7,000 years.  While there are around 40 species, only four are used for modern commercial cotton production.

Cotton Plant botanical prints

One of these four species, Gossypium barbadense, is the the variety traditionally grown for extra long staple fibres, and represents just a tiny proportion of the world’s total cotton production. Around 90 per cent of global cotton production is made-up of short staple varieties.

ELS cottons, such as Sea Island, Indian Suvin and Egyptian Giza 45, are considered the most luxurious, making them highly prized and the most expensive of all the cottons.  These varieties are hand-picked and very scarce.

Mechanical cotton harvesters in action

American Pima is the most commonly cultivated ELS cotton, grown in large-scale plantations in California and the southern states where it’s usually machine harvested.

Because supplies of the most luxurious, hand-picked varieties are limited, the bulk of the raw material that English Fine Cottons will be spinning at Tower Mill is superior American Pima – or Supima®.  Only three per cent of  the cotton grown in the U.S. is Supima®.

Technically speaking

The recognised industry standard for the minimum fibre length of an ELS cotton is 1-3/8″ or 34.925 mm, which is significantly longer than traditional varieties of cotton, known as short staple, Upland cottons.  Upland cotton varieties have an average staple length of between 26 and 27 mm.  ELS cotton fibres can exceed 40mm.

As well as fibre length, ELS cottons are also prized for their superior strength and uniformity, high lustre and unrivalled softness.

However, they are grown only in limited quantities because they need very a specific environment to grow successfully, with optimum amounts of sunshine, rain and humidity. ELS varieties are very vigorous plants and if not managed properly, will grow into large bushes or small trees that produce minimal fibre.

The cotton is sometimes hand-picked, rather than machine harvested, resulting in higher production costs, especially when compared to Upland cotton varieties.

Sea Island

The original ELS variety – Gossypium barbadense – is grown in the Caribbean Islands, where the tropical climate produces some of the most luxurious cotton fibres in the world, known as Sea Island cotton.

Sea Island cotton has been grown in Barbados for more than 300 years.  Perhaps the most famous of all the luxury cottons – in the 1800s it was so coveted, it was used to make Queen Victoria’s handkerchiefs.

Today, Sea Island cotton’s unique qualities – ELS fibres, silky lustre, supreme softness and high tensile strength – allow it to be woven into cloths of the very highest yarn count.

The rarest type of cotton, it makes-up less than 0.0004 per cent of global production.

Indian Suvin

Suvin is the jewel in the Indian cotton crown.  Suvin is a hybrid of Sea Island cotton from St Vincent in the Caribbean, and an indigenous Indian variety called Sujatha.  Often called ‘White Gold’, only a few thousand bales of this superfine cotton are grown each year in the southern Indian sate of Tamil Nadu

Egyptian Giza 45

Giza 45 is the most highly prized of all the Egyptian cottons.  It is cultivated in a small area of the Nile Delta, where sun, rain, humidity and fertile soil create perfect growing conditions.  Harvested by hand, it’s five times as expensive as other Egyptian cottons.

American Pima

Pima cotton is the generic name for ELS cotton grown in the U.S.  It was named after the Pima Indians who tended the cotton in Arizona in the early 20th century.  Supima® cotton – superior American Pima – has been developed to improve its yield potential and enhance its fibre characteristics.  This premium variety of ELS cotton is grown exclusively in the far west and southwest U.S. in furrows, so that growers can easily regulate irrigation.

Article extracted from www.englishfinecottons.co.uk

eternal 883 (10th wash)

Hello to my retired old beloved buddy Eternal 883. I couldn’t leave him sitting at home and mould. Somehow I placed him indoor and folded was a bad idea. The 10th vinegar wash was necessary. The 9th wash was on March 2015! This week I saw a great denim repair master in Osaka on Instagram. I was thinking bringing my buddy back again hahaha. OK for the record: Size 30/34///since 2011///1 soak///10 vinegar washes///14.5oz Kurashiki selvedge denim

eternal 888 denim diary: orchard mrt 12am

At work last month for an OOH advertising installation for Fisherman’s Friend along Orchard iON tunnel. It was 12am to 5am with my buddy. I’m glad it was mildly air conditioned during the installation 🙂

Are you a denim addict?

Found this funny yet relevant article from the jeans blog.com

Welcome back for 2017. Good to see you again. Not surprising however as this is a good place to keep up with all things denim. Of course you need to visit often so that you don’t miss anything. After all, no one wants to be late to the party when it comes to the next phase of denim, especially if you want to be the trendsetter in your community. Let’s face it, that sweet love of denim is in or veins, we have blue blood. It makes you wonder, are we addicted to denim? Perhaps, but how would you know?

20 Reasons You Might Be A Denim Addict:

1. You visit The Jeans Blog several times per day.

2. Celebs in Denim and Denim Reviews are your favourite section of the website.

3. You’ve gone on a diet to save on groceries so that you have more money to spend on jeans.

4. You can go a year or more without wearing the same pair of jeans twice.

5. New jeans are considered a mandatory expense whereas everything else is discretionary.

6. You’ve inadvertently bought identical multiple pairs of jeans and not realized it for months (or years) and some of them you’ve yet to even wear.

7. Or you willingly buy multiple pairs of the same jeans just in case one pair gets ruined.

8. You can pick out 50 shades of black denim.

9. You are on so many brand or retailer notification lists that your email provider now classifies them as SPAM and automatically sends them to the Junk Folder.

10. It’s not just jeans, you have denim bags, shorts, jackets, skirts, table cloths, sheets, and shoes.

11. When you’re out, you find yourself staring at everyone else in jeans trying to guess the brand.

12. You often daydream about the next pair of jeans you would love to own.

13. When you open your laptop you immediately check the new in jeans on your favourite store.

14. Or you already have tabs for jeans open which stay permanently on your browser.

15. You style all of your outfits around your jeans, those are the most important part of the outfit, right?

16. You can’t answer the question ‘how many jeans do you own?’ because you lost track of the number years ago.

17. Your jeans storage has got so out of hand you end up sleeping with piles of denim around you.

18. You’ve thrown out your roommate because you need the extra bedroom as storage space for your jeans.

19. Your friends always come to you for advice on denim as you’re the ‘Jeans Guru’.

20. You remember more fits, cuts, washes, and denim terms than you do your friends birthdays.

Fullcount 2737 tight fit denim jacket immaculate details

Leather patch on the neck.
Place the rivet reinforced flap pocket only one side. It is with a red tab.
Front is pleated specification.
Button Silver erase type without gloss. Is an original design that the brand name has been engraved.
Cuff is one button. Sleeves superposition in the opposite direction to the 2nd, the button will be the palm side.
The placket part using a red ear.
With cinch back, which is also a feature of the 1st model. It is a rivet reinforcement.
Inward action pleats provided in the shallow on the back.